Well ive brought a harrison l5 lathe from a high school 400km later and 2 broken strops its home! While im geting my workshop wired up im giving it s clean up and a general tidy up Im in need of a manual and i can't seem to find one anywhere i believe its a 1959 model the last of the threaded spindle nose if anybody could point me in the right direction or supply a manual it would be much appreciated! Will try upload a pic shortly! If i have uploaded this in the wrong section i appoligise. You never want to use grease on ways or other parts on a lathe that are exposed to chips and dust.
There is special oil for the ways, slideway oil, which is relatively thin and non-sticky so it is easy to clean off. The oil has about the same feeling as oil for air tools. In case an oil like a straight SAE 30 engine oil was used it would be difficult to remove fine dust like from cast iron. It is also good to cover the ways and put some paper behind the work piece in the chuck when turning cast iron.
Grease is only used for protected parts like e.g. Closed gears and the backside of a chuck scroll wheel. You never want to use grease on ways or other parts on a lathe that are exposed to chips and dust. There is special oil for the ways, slideway oil, which is relatively thin and non-sticky so it is easy to clean off. The oil has about the same feeling as oil for air tools. In case an oil like a straight SAE 30 engine oil was used it would be difficult to remove fine dust like from cast iron. It is also good to cover the ways and put some paper behind the work piece in the chuck when turning cast iron.
Grease is only used for protected parts like e.g. Closed gears and the backside of a chuck scroll wheel.
Everything seems fairly good on the machine the cam lock on the tail stock is missing, thats abit anoying if anybody has some specs i can get a mate to machine one up. All the slides are nice and smooth no bad dings wich is nice for the last 10 years its been used to just hold brass pieces and tap a thread with the tail stock because of all the health and safety stuff all school training lathes must have a chuck guard i was painting the exterior of the metal work room and seen it in a corner looking sad and neglected coverd in saw dust so i enquired about it the metal teacher just wanted the space for the brand new one they brought (cheap Chinese one) he told the principal it was dangerous and bent, so i snaped it up for $500. I'd say soak it too. Clean her up real good re oil everything. After the paint job of course, what color are YA gonna pick? SAFTEY orange with reflected strips.
Harrison M300 Lathe Manual Pdf
Or a good pine green even gray blue tinted. She looks in good shape for a school machine. Photo viewer to pdf.
Lathe Manuals Pdf
Did YA score any other chucks or collets. The Orange is a jab for its multi colors. I've seen some loud colors on some tho. Good luck on the LATHE YA know you practically stole it for that money.
Keep us in the loop on progress and or problems. Sorry forgot you guys can't read minds haha I've done some very basic tests with the limited equipment I have on hand and torn into the gear box to assess the damage will post results soon! I want a general picture of how much I'll need to put into the old girl before I get top far into the clean up and fix up process I've found a few interesting fixing thus far hopefully no more supprizes. Tell me if i get abit picture heavy just hard getting a decent shot of the damaged parts Looks like and feels like ripples in the dove tales must of happend when somebody hit the chuck with the compound slide.? Could this be re scraped? Thanks for replys also!
Im getting 0.04mm difference front to back measureing this way, correct me if im doing these things wrong im just after a quick and dirty measurements im not looking to make parts for nasa! Im getting around 0.07mm difference here with the gib? Plates firm and can push the carrage from one end almost to the other with only minimum binding towards the tail stock end Trying to lift the carrage im getting 0.12mm When pushing down i get 0.04mm Pushing right 0.04mm Pushing left 0.11mm Im not being gentle about it eather Im thinking to fix this i could machine down the damaged area and sleve the shaft?
Or maybe when i make a new bush i could make it to suit the new diameter shaft? The cross slide on the other hand.
Now that seems to of had a hideing im unsure how im going to approach that one its seen some better days ill try post some pictures shortly seems exeptoinally worn or something cant quite put my finger on the problem yet. Scott mccloud reinventing comics. I'd say soak it too. Clean her up real good re oil everything. After the paint job of course, what color are YA gonna pick?
SAFTEY orange with reflected strips. Or a good pine green even gray blue tinted. She looks in good shape for a school machine. Did YA score any other chucks or collets. The Orange is a jab for its multi colors. I've seen some loud colors on some tho.
Good luck on the LATHE YA know you practically stole it for that money. Keep us in the loop on progress and or problems. A few comments.
The bed looks OK to me, that tiny bit of wear is nothing to worry about. The cross slide looks a bit the worse for wear but again, it is probably useable as it is. The cross slide nut will be worn but thats not a disaster either. You might ask G&M tools for a new shaft, they are in the UK, they bought the old Harrison works spares, they have bits on EBAY. There is a guy in NZ who has L5 parts on EBAY. Have you seen this kiwi guy with L5 bits? I bought a L5 fixed steady from him.
One thing that annoys me about the early L5's is the small bore of the spindle, it is only 7/8'. The later L5's from the mid 1950's on had a hardened bed. A few comments.
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The bed looks OK to me, that tiny bit of wear is nothing to worry about. The cross slide looks a bit the worse for wear but again, it is probably useable as it is. The cross slide nut will be worn but thats not a disaster either. You might ask G&M tools for a new shaft, they are in the UK, they bought the old Harrison works spares, they have bits on EBAY. There is a guy in NZ who has L5 parts on EBAY. Have you seen this kiwi guy with L5 bits?
I bought a L5 fixed steady from him. One thing that annoys me about the early L5's is the small bore of the spindle, it is only 7/8'. The later L5's from the mid 1950's on had a hardened bed.
HARRISON LATHES L5A, (9' & 11') Later Models email: HARRISON LATHES L5A, (9' & 11') Later Models A manual for this lathe Newer Models: Lathes badged ' Harrison 11-inch ' are just machines produced during the last years of L5A/L6 production; they had a 5.5' centre height but, instead of a screwed thread on the spindle nose, were supplied as standard with the safer and more rigid American L00 (L zero-zero) fitting. Typical late-model Harrison badged as an '11-inch' and fitted with a full (Inch) screwcutting & feeds gearbox Harrison L5/L5A/11-inch with 3-speed screwcutting and feeds gearbox L5A/11-inch compound slide rest, 4-way toolpost on a T-slot top-slide, bed-mounted multi-stop and dial-thread indicator. The changewheels were made from steel, not cast iron, and as a result could set up quite a ringing noise at higher spindle speeds; careful adjustment of backlash between mating teeth, and the use of a heavier, 'open-gear' lubricant helped to minimise this problem. L5A/11-inch carriage with the thicker top slide casting that allowed the use of a T-slot to retain the toolpost. This machine has the large bore, threaded headstock spindle. North American market L5A/11-inch badged as a 'Clearing' When the increased centre height L.5A was introduced its spindle (with a slightly larger 1.375' (35 mm) hole was also offered on the smaller machine L5 - though this is rarely found.
Email: HARRISON LATHES L5A, (9' & 11') Later Models A manual for this lathe Newer Models.
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